The reason why I do all my auto repairs and service is not because I'm super cheap ... it's because most shops put their entry level technicians to do the simple services (not repairs) and they may mess it up. Oil pan bolts being torqued on with an powered impact tool and you can't get the bolt off ... or screwed on with a impact tool and the pan threads get damaged (cross threaded) ... or with a tire rotations, they use the wrong size impact socket and round off the lug nut points so that next time the correct sized socket won't work ... or they impact the lug nut with a power tool before screwing it on with their hand and they cross thread the lug studs. I may sound somewhat critical. People do make mistakes. But when I mess up, I take ownership of the mishap and fix it. Or if I can't for some reason, I inform the customer and they're generally forgiving because they appreciate my honesty. The low level technicians, on the other hand, will keep torquing down the nut or bolt until its tight and leave the problem to the next guy to fix.
This article, with video, address both a sheared off lug stud (the lug stud broke into the lug nut because it was cross threaded on too tight) and a cross threaded lug stud that required replacement because the threads were beyond repair.
Video on how to replace a damaged Lug Stud
This 2.5-minute video will show you general step-by-step instructions on replacing a broken or damaged stud lug. The steps are also described lower down in the article. The repair was performed on a 2004 Honda Accord. One stud lug was sheared off and the other the threads damaged.
Step-by-Step Instructions: Replacing a broke Lug Stud
I. Remove the Brake Caliper Assembly and Brake Rotor
It is assumed your car has disc brakes on all four corners.
1. Remove the brake caliper assembly off the steering knuckle (front wheel) or knuckle (rear wheel) of the car. Support the assembly as to not put stress on the brake hose.
2. Remove the brake rotor. If the rotor is stuck, a few sharp blows with a ball peen hammer between the lug studs should vibrate the rotor loose.
II. Punching out the damaged Lug Stud(s)
There are specialty tools that can press out the lug studs. A few sharp blows with a hammer works for me. The studs have connection splines that allows a tight fit inside the wheel hub hole. The hammer blows will not damage the wheel bearings.
III. Installing the new Stud Lugs
If the steering knuckle or a wheel hub/bearing assembly does not allow the head of the new lug stud to angle into the wheel hub hole, you can grind off a portion of the head to allow clearance into the wheel hub hole. If the brake dust shield is also in the path of the new lug stud, and the dust shield cannot be removed (like on the Honda), see if there's a low point on the shield that can be bent to allow a path for the lug stud. A few light taps with a hammer is all that should be needed to get the lug stud through the wheel hub hole.
IV. Torquing in the Stud Lug into the Wheel Hub
Place a spacer like a over sized nut between the stud lug protruding out of the wheel hub hole and screw on the lug nut. Apply torque to the lug nut (preferably with a powered impact tool) to pull the splines on the lug stud in to the wheel hub hole. When the head of the stud is flush with the wheel hub, you're done.
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